About Uyghur Etles Silk
Etles is warp ikat. The mulberry-silk warp is bound in sections and dyed in layers before a single weft crosses it, so the bound parts never take colour — undyed white silk is at once the ground and the outline of every motif. Hotan and Lop cloth is prized for its black-and-white reading, worked as 白底黑花 or 黑底白花, with red-white and blue-white pairs and small hits of gold and sapphire.
Because dye migrates along the warp, every figure carries a feathered halo down its length while its edges across the cloth stay clean. That asymmetry is the whole grammar here: vertical bleed, horizontal precision, narrow vertical bands mirrored about their axis, almond and comb silhouettes instead of icons.
- Origin
- Hotan, Lop and Jiya township, southern Xinjiang, China
- Era
- pre-1900 to present; national intangible cultural heritage listing 2008
- Key figures
- Jiya township dyer-weaver households · Hotan and Lop etles workshops
- Movements
- Central Asian warp ikat (abrbandi) · four traditional etles classes: 黑 / 红 / 黄 / 莎车式
Uyghur Etles Silk design spec
Colors
Typography
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