A nganya is a Nairobi matatu that its owner has turned into a moving stage: airbrushed portraits down both flanks, vinyl wrap over the panels, LED tube under the sills, and a sound system loud enough to be the reason you picked that bus. Jobs run from a week to four months and up to about $15,000 a vehicle.

The base coat is black on purpose — neon and chrome outlines only read against it. Across that black runs a broken yellow band, 150 mm wide, required by Kenyan law on every PSV of 25 seats or fewer. This system is shot the way you actually meet a nganya: at night, under its own lights.