At half past six, the lamps in Botan Hall are turned down before the street outside has surrendered its last blue. I spent two weeks this winter at the same corner table, watching clerks, poets, and one violin student choose the velvet chairs over the newer chrome stools installed across town.

Progress arrived, then asked for tea

The room is not a museum; it is more persuasive than that. A Western clock ticks above a painted screen of river reeds, while the owner files receipts in English beside a porcelain ash tray from Nagasaki. Nothing matches cleanly, and that is the point.